Jean-Paul Bucher was a Parisian waiter turned entrepreneur who acquired many restaurants in the city that he then standardized in terms of cuisine and service. A neatly dressed, rotund and polite man, Bucher responded agreeably to complaints from Gopnik and others that he was harming the quality of the Balzar restaurant in particular. Even so, Bucher had a steely edge and when pushed too hard by the friends of the Balzar, he stood his ground.